Inspired by Christian Dior's architectural vision, Simons' designs boasted familiar silhouettes with new, contemporary touches—a message he translated to hairstylist Guido Palau and makeup artist Pat McGrath. Gone were the coiffed couture updos, the perfect red lips, and the winged black liner of old. In their place: air-dried, blunt-cut middle parts; matte, multi-tonal mouths; and electric cat-eyes with coloured lashes.
Designed by Dior creative director of makeup Tyen, the palette of colors employed backstage was positively futuristic. Using a full-coverage skin tint, like CoverGirl & Olay Tone Rehab 2-in-1 Foundation dusted with its Pressed Powder, Pat McGrath kept complexions paled out and matte, save for a slight contour on cheekbones that she created with a pink blush. She then turned her attention to eyes that came in four different iterations, all of which boasted two unifying factors in the form of white kohl liner along the inner rims and a thick slick of chrome cream eye shadow, like CoverGirl Intense ShadowBlast in Platinum Pop.
Models were assigned different bold hues "to emphasize the silhouettes" of specific looks. Using a well-sharpened liner, like CoverGirl Liquiline Blast Eyeliner Pencil in Blue Boom or Green Glow, McGrath drew a second ultra-thin elongated stroke on top of the silver shadow she had already applied. To further amp up the colour, she then coated lashes with mascara, like Diorshow New Look Lash-Multiplying Effect Volume & Care Mascara, and powdered them with corresponding pigments, like CG Eye Enhancers in Lime Alive and Indigo Impact. Brows were filled in and brushed up while lips were treated to a mix of orange, red, and fuchsia pout perfectors before getting a pressing of electric cerise loose pigment in the center to intensify the vivid effect.
Guido Palau went into his first meeting with Simons having "all those couture references" in his head. But they were quickly dispelled. "The day before the show, we were working on the hairstyle and it was a gut instinct: We just pulled down the girls' hair. Dressy hair doesn't really translate to the way women wear couture today," Palau explains. "The dramatic bit was in the simplicity."
Centre-parting damp hair, Palau prepped tresses with Redken Guts 10 Volume Spray-Foam and let it dry naturally. To add "an elegance," he made sure that every model had a uniform length, trimming through the morning to ensure that there was "a sense of proportion" and that the hair didn't touch the back of the clothes. For a bit of control, Palau tucked front pieces behind the ears and spritzed Redken Forceful 23 Super Strength Finishing Spray around the hairline so the style looked "groomed overall," before netted veils designed by Stephen Jones were affixed for the finale.
Covergirl + Olay Simply Ageless Foundation - Covergirl + Olay Simply Ageless Primer - NARS Matte Eyeshadow in Outremer - Diorshow New Look Mascara - Rogue Dior Lipcolour in Cherry Red - Diorshow Brow Styler - Dior Ultra-Gloss Addict in Little Red Dress - Yves Saint Laurent Long-Lasting Eye Pencil in Oriental Blue & Stellar Green - Illamasqua Eyeshadow in Toxic - Barry M Liquid Eyeliner in Mermaid Green
diane von furstenberg spring/summer 2012 | valentino spring/summer 2012
rachel xo
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